Antique Equestrian Deco Brooch Sterling Silver Carnelian Stock Pin c. 1910-1920

This early Art Deco, Great War Era silver carnelian brooch is a classic example of the simple, refined gemstone jewellery favoured by young women and men belonging to the early 20th century sporting and equestrian elites. At the time it was made, this clean-lined design was considered very cutting-edge and modern - a radical departure from the ornate Victorian and Edwardian jewellery. Brooches such as this one were widely adopted by the equestrian community for use as stock pins, because the long, straight safety pin style design was functionally ideal for holding layers of thick silk or cotton stock ties flat under a hacking jacket or tailcoat, preventing the fabric from flapping while riding. Also, carnelian is deeply rooted in traditional equestrian styling, its rich, warm reddish-orange colour complementing the formal, historic hunting livery and pairing beautifully with traditional tweed hacking jackets, navy blue show coats, and gold-embroidered waistcoat details.

The sophisticated equestrian or sportswoman who would have chosen this pin was navigating a vibrant era of fashion liberation, shifting away from restrictive Victorian clothing toward the streamlined, confident athletic silhouettes of the modern age. Positioned neatly at the crux of a formal neck tie, this pin was an intentional statement of tailored grace, projecting a polished, athletic, and socially assured identity equally suited for the show ring, the hunting field, or upscale countryside gatherings.

During the first two decades of the 20th century, a bar brooch of this type was a highly functional piece of everyday jewellery, used by both men and women to fasten shirt and blouse collars (sitting perfectly horizontal at the throat and keeping the collar locked in place), neckties and scarves (including cravats and Ascot scarves worn with tailored walking suits), or to add a flash of colour and polish to a tailored suit lapel. For men, a pin of this exact length and strength served a highly utilitarian purpose as a collar pin or tie stay. Because carnelian was considered an acceptable, understated "manly" gemstone (frequently used in gentlemen's signet rings and watch fobs), a simple silver and carnelian bar pin was a perfectly acceptable sporting or day-wear accessory for a well-dressed gentleman attending a race, riding horses, or working in a modern office.

DIMENSIONS & FASTENING

The sleek rectangular-profile bar measures approximately 6cm (just under 2.4”) in length, is crafted from solid sterling silver, and weighs 4.2 grams. The central oval carnelian cabochon measures carnelian cabochon measures 16 x 11 mm (0.6 x 0.4 inches). The gemstone is elevated in a balanced multi-claw setting, featuring split prongs that secure the stone tightly while maximizing light entry from the sides to illuminate its fiery interior.

The pin fastens with a secure "C" clasp hook and strong straight pin. This hardware style is highly prized by riders as it lacks modern bulky mechanisms, allowing the pin to slide smoothly through thick layers of starched cotton or silk jacquard without snagging the delicate threads of the stock tie.

CONDITION

In excellent antique condition throughout, with the sterling silver bar displaying a bright, polished finish complemented by a soft, authentic natural patina around the wire claw settings. The natural carnelian gemstone remains immaculately preserved, entirely free of chips, fractures, or surface abrasions, retaining its original high-gloss polish and vibrant translucency. The pin mechanism remains straight, exceptionally rigid, and strong, snapping into the C-clasp with excellent tension to ensure a firm, safe, and secure hold through multiple layers of heavy equestrian neckwear.

The brooch will be shipped in an Art Deco style hard case (final two photos). 

HALLMARKS/MARKS

The side of the central bar, near the clasp, is cleanly incised with the single block stamp "STERLING". This particular marking is consistent with British workshops creating premium pieces intended for international trade during the 1910s to the 1920s, relying on the universal legal stamp rather than regional hallmarks to comply with global customs laws.

The brooch was most acquired in the North of England, and was likely manufactured for export around the time of the First World War (circa 1910-20) in the Birmingham Jewellery Quarter - a powerhouse of the global silver trade at the time, filled with industrial factories and workshops specialising in the production of high-quality silver and gemstone jewellery. Whilst domestically sold silver was legally required to be officially assayed and bear a full set of British hallmarks, jewellery intended for export (usually to North America) – such as this brooch - could bypass extra costs and production delays if packed straight for shipping overseas, where consumers explicitly looked for the word "STERLING" or "STERLING SILVER" rather than British hallmarks.

HISTORICAL CONTEXT

Interestingly, despite being stamped STERLING for the export market, this brooch appears to have remained in the UK. This could be due to the disruption of trade caused by the advent of the First World War. Prior to August 1914, Birmingham’s Jewellery Quarter operated massive export lines, but when WWI broke out, global trade routes were instantly severed or severely restricted due to German U-boat blockades in the Atlantic. Shipping non-essential luxury items like silver brooches became impossible. By late 1914 and early 1915, the British government actively halted fine jewellery manufacturing, with workshops forced to repurpose their specialized stamping machinery and wire-drawing tools to manufacture munitions, military badges, and precision instruments for the war effort. This timeline would suggest our brooch may have been manufactured around 1910-14.

This early Art Deco design acts as a direct minimalist evolutionary descendant of the earlier Victorian Scottish ‘pebble’ silver jewellery tradition. While it looks completely different at first glance, they share the exact same aesthetic and materials. This bar brooch strips down that historic style into a modern layout. By stripping the frame down to a single, stark, geometric silver bar and emphasizing a bold natural carnelian cabochon, this design foreshadows the Machine Age and Art Deco movements. It championed clean lines, structural honesty, and a minimalist industrial aesthetic that felt incredibly fresh and futuristic to a generation emerging from the rigid, over-decorated Victorian world.

T&C
All our vintage and antique items are offered in fully wearable condition.

All shipping is free, tracked and insured. We choose expedited services whenever possible. 

USA items are shipped DDP (direct duties paid) so there are no extra charges on delivery. 

Our shop is registered in the United Kingdom and has no sales tax nexus in any country, so YOUR PURCHASE IS SALES TAX FREE.

Apart from the USA (where customs tariffs are pre-paid by us), customers are normally responsible for import, VAT or customs charges that apply in their country. 

WE are happy to accept RETURNS for any reason: if it's not right for you, send it back to us within 30 days for a full refund of your original payment. Buyers usually pay the return shipping, but please contact us if you need help with this.

Items will be securely packaged in complimentary gift boxes, accompanied by a dealer's note documenting our historical research. 

Vintage and antique presentation boxes may be available to source through us - please get in touch if you would like one. 

Thank you for visiting us! Alice xx